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It was Christmas morning in the small village of Cawston and the sun
was shining on the glittery trees and hedges from last nights snow
and ice. There was also a little ray of sunshine on the dying
geraniums standing on the kitchen windowsill in Molly’s home. She
was expecting her son and his unparalleled family for Christmas
dinner. Discovering that she had run out of potatoes she now
appeared to be under a deep neurotic strain. Sitting there alone
nibbling at a pale pink wafer and drinking large quantities of Earl
Grey tea, considered by many to be the best English remedy in a
moment of crisis, Molly put down her fag and started to think of a
solution. Blowing her nose on an oblong piece of loo paper she
realised that a woman’s life on Christmas Day was not easy as so
much more tends to fall on the her shoulders in terms of
organisation and cooking.
Molly’s family avoided her for most of the year
except on occasions such as Christmas, christenings, weddings and
funerals. The most popular were christenings and funerals as they
were by far the shortest. But today, being Christmas Day, they all
had to make the most of it. Planning this nightmare started early
in November and like the majority of English families Molly would
never dream of spending her Christmas anywhere but in the midst of
her family, considered by the neighbours as a nest of vipers. Last
year Christmas ended in tears over her over-boiled winter cabbage
floating in lukewarm, salt water which took them almost six months
to get over.
Gazing at the bird that had been hanging by its
feet for a few days to tenderise and now ready for the oven, Molly
searched the cupboards for a culinary inspiration to replace the
potatoes. Italian pasta seemed suitable but might remind her son of
the bad hotel he once stayed at in Italy. She had plenty of rice
but did not want to hear any remarks from her self-confident and
fearless daughter-in-law about the art of using Chinese chop
sticks. Although foreign travel in recent years had considerably
improved British eating habits, Molly just had to cook the British
way at Christmas. Remembering her mother’s addiction to Norfolk
dumplings, eaten by hungry peasants and farm workers in times when
money was scarce, she now had the solution. Well, if they don’t
like them, they can give them to the dog, Molly thought to herself.
Starchy belly-filling and protein-stretching ‘fillers’ called
dumplings, like many other medieval recipes, have been passed on for
generations by thoughtful or some less thoughtful housewives. Good
plain cooking, plainly presented, is central to the tradition of
Norfolk cooking. They are simple, wholesome and satisfying food
made from the products of the rich harvests in and around Cawston
and have a long tradition in the county.
Demonstrating the true Britishness of a typical Cawstonian, Molly
knew that it was easy to make the basic dumpling; a mixture of flour
and water, or a mixture of flour and shredded suet mixed with water
for a richer dumpling. In an attempt to satisfy her unsatisfying
family at Christmas she wanted to be a purist and made her dumplings
with bread flour, yeast, lukewarm water, milk and a pinch of salt.
She remembered how she once made flavoured dumplings for her family
which with a little mustard disappeared fast on a cold day.
To prepare a successful Christmas dinner for a
hypercritical family she had to be endlessly resourceful and
innovative. She therefore added to the dough parsley rich in
Vitamin C, thyme with its strong aromatic flavour as well as chives
and a few other herbs that were originally used hundreds of years
ago to disguise doubtful flavours in cooking. Just what my
daughter-in-law does everyday, Molly said knowingly to herself.
Looking at the steam
rising from her gorgeously moist Christmas pudding with a subtle
hint of lemon, spices and brandy, she suddenly had an idea that she
thought might go down well with her unthankful family. Why don’t I
put a pound coin in one of the tennis-ball size dumplings, just like
we put a coin in our Christmas puddings, she asked herself.
Irrespective of any modern beliefs in potential choking hazards,
Molly added the coin to the ingredients. She hoped that according
to the tradition of the Christmas pudding whoever found the coin in
their dumpling that day would also enjoy wealth and happiness, a
seldom feature in her family.
To disarm her potentially critical visitors she
had decorated her front door impressively and the front room was
ready in terms of a cosy Dickensian domesticity. But her good
intentions failed as her daughter-in-law complained about the door
knockers not shining and noticed the milkman’s finger print on the
doorbell.
With twinkling twigs and red candles forming the centrepiece on the
table, they sat down for their Christmas dinner. She started to
bring in the food not forgetting an extra large portion of
cranberries for her daughter-in-law to help her urinary infection.
Her daughter-in-law was a charmless, wild extremist and absurdly
prudish woman who insisted upon asserting her individualist and
independent rights. Last year when she was drinking potato wine,
she brought up the subject of finding an old people’s home for Molly
much sooner than anyone else had predicted. It was Christmas Day
again and Molly preferred not to hear the horror stories about the
family of her first husband’s Estonian wife or details about her
itching chilblains and bleeding haemoroids.
Her children, dressed in baggy sweaters and
novelty Teletubby slippers, were no different as she had brought
them up to become humourless and rather comic characters who scoffed
constantly at custard cream biscuits and always grabbed at second
helpings. These oversized boys were constantly overfed with fats
and carbohydrates that had unmistakably led to their double chins
and boxer noses. Under the influence of their interest in the
Feminist Housewives Mormons Society they constantly talked about the
black hole, outer darkness and doomsday. Molly will never forget
how they once raised their index finger telling her to rearrange the
linen hanging on the outdoor line in a symmetrical fashion to look
more graceful before the end of the world comes.
Her son was an unmistakeable figure, dressed in
an old fashion, ill-fitting brown jumper. He was interested in
pigeon-fancying, ball games, tiddlywinks and exhuming his allotment
next to Cawston cemetery. He considered fish and chips as the
quintessential English food and always pretended to love his wife’s
awful creation of chop suey served with mushy peas and soggy chips.
Since a child he suffered from a bowel disorder and had been brought
up to take a keen interest in the irregularities and wretchedness of
his constipation by consuming little liver pills and caster oil. He
refused to use bowel stimulants such as glycerin suppositories for
fear of staining his Y fronts. Molly never forgave her son for
paying the one thousand pound bill for private surgery on his wife’s
backside so it would fit into her thermal underwear again.
Loaded with food the dinner table was ready for
everyone, even for the gloomiest pessimist. Nervously she explained
to them what had happened and the entire family laughed out loud
when they saw the dumplings which they were expected to eat with the
roast chicken, battered organic sausages, a variety of vegetables,
rich nutty stuffing, Yorkshire pudding and hot gravy. After tasting
the dumplings and finding the hidden pound coin even the
daughter-in-law unexpectedly praised Molly for her innovative and
tasty cooking for the first time in years. With no signs of
animosity in the air this was the talk of the day. Sipping tea
served from an old cracked teapot bought at a car boot sale, they
nearly forgot to listen to the traditional Christmas message from
the sovereign considered by many to be the ideal personification of
Britain in the early years of the 21st century.
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